Due South, Brighton

One of Brighton’s waterfront restaurants and, as far as I know, the only one offering organic food and wine, Due South is right over the road from the Grand Hotel and the Brighton Conference Centre. In summer, it does a roaring trade with tourists; in winter, plenty of locals frequent it.

A good friend was in town from Australia and, as he had little time inbetween presentations at BBC Showcase, I booked us electronically into Due South. They took my card details. Not hopefully, I asked for the window table looking out over the promenade and both of Brighton’s piers.

Arriving early, during a lull in the rain, I found my way to the unisex toilets and brushed my hair back into shape. Then I went upstairs and was shown to our table. The electronic booking service had produced the table I asked for.

Realising there might be a wait before T. arrived, I ordered water. It came promptly and was served with lemon and no ice, just the way I like it. Instead of an Amuse Bouche, I entertained myself by contemplating the menu in detail over sips of water whilst listening to other people’s conversations.

The warm lamb’s tongue with confit potato and salted mackerel dressing seemed to please several punters, most of whom, like me, were past their ‘salad days’. After a piquant form of food poisoning in France last year, I was tempted by oysters and scallops but thought it wiser to refrain.

By the time T. arrived, I had decided on Fish and Chips as a starter and Jerusalem Artichoke Risotto with Truffles and a deep fried duck’s egg as a main course. Should there be pudding, an organic chocolate mint fondant with espresso icecream seemed marginally attractive. Except that it was cold.

At my behest, we ordered Horsmonden Dry White (organic) from East Sussex. The waiter said apologetically, “It’s too popular and they only have small quantities.” My companion looked faintly relieved and ordered Sancerre Dauny, France 2008 (organic). It was an excellent ‘autumnal’ sauvignon, although I confess to being distracted from its intrinsic qualities by my lively companion.

Having considered my preferences, T. had Pan-seared Brighton Scallops with celeriac and apple salad and polished them off in a couple of mouthfuls. He had Fish and Chips as a second starter, but elegance not quantity is the theme at Due South. He still looked hungry.

The fish and chips came with a pickled quail’s egg or two*, and something green that I now realise must have been a small jallop of pea puree. There was some minced gherkin and a beautifully shaped piece of batter sans anything inside it. All very pretty but I was glad a substantial dish was to follow.

The risotto was creamy and the kind of texture one looks for but had too much alien greenery in it for my taste; as for truffle, that was hard to discern. T. had a mouthful of mine and shrugged.

We moved on to puddings: the Assiette for two. There were several little pots of cold creamy substances, a hot chocolate concoction, a couple of tablespoons of superb rhubarb cooked perhaps with cardamom, and three small squares of a gingery jelly.

On a bleak winter’s day, icecream is not what you long for… a disappointing finale to a pleasant, nicely crafted but somewhat insubstantial lunch.

The service, however, was excellent. The great art of unobtrusive waiting is something to be praised and rarely found in Brighton.

*I don’t know what they did to the quail’s egg but the flavour was superb.

http://www.duesouth.co.uk/

GUINEA FOWL
1 guinea fowl
a little olive oil
2 carrots, cut into chunks
6 dried prunes, dates or figs
rind of 1 preserved lemon, cut into strips
1 mint sprig, leaves chopped
Harissa, to serve

CHERMOULA
1 large red onion, roughly chopped
1 large garlic clove
1.5cm piece ginger, roughly chopped
100ml olive oil
100ml lemon juice
1/2 tsp Thai fish sauce
1 heaped tsp honey
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground paprika
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp hot chilli powder
1 handful flat-leaf parsley
1 handful coriander

COUSCOUS
100g couscous
1 tsp salt
100g butter, cubed
1 small handful sultanas

The day before cooking, put all the ingredients for the chermoula ina blender and process until smooth. Pour over the bird and marinate in the fridge overnight.

Next day, heat the oven to 220 degrees centigrade (gas 7). Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan and brown the bird on all sides over a high heat. Put the carrots, onions and fruit into the tagine and place the guinea fowl on top. Pour in about 400ml water - enough to come 1cm from the top of the tagine base. Cover and cook in the oven for about 45 minutes, then turn the heat down to 180 degrees centigrade (gas 4) and cook for another 45 minutes.

About 15 minutes before serving, rinse the couscous in cold water and put in a shallow bowl. Season with salt and scatter with the butter and sultanas. Pour on enough boiling water to cover the couscous by about 1cm. Cover and leave for 10 minutes or until the grains are plump and tender.

Open the tagine at the table and scatter with the preserved lemon and mint. Serve the couscous and harissa separately.rested chicken over the dish as well. Sprinkle with the last of the chopped herbs.

Click here for Chicken Tarragon recipe.

John Torode’s Chicken and Other Birds is published by Quadrille.
www.quadrille.co.uk

At the back of the book is a list of Poultry and Game Dealers, retailers, farms, stalls and online retailers.

Chicken and Other Birds runs the gamut of everything from that great Jewish staple, chicken soup, where a whole chicken is simmered so that all its flavour is extracted, to cooking the classic roast in the fashion that Torode’s mother taught him.

Don’t skimp on quality for chicken soup, Torode urges:  “Cook it carefully and you will have a good pot of soup that satisfies and heals.”

My favourites are Chicken with Tarragon Sauce, Chicken, Crab and Avocado Salad, Spiced Duck Salad with Thai Herbs and Roasted Rice, and his ‘one-pot wonders’: Coq au Vin, Guinea Fowl Tagine, Pigeons in a Pot and a heavenly range of tarts, pies and pastries.

Chicken with Tarragon Sauce

Serves 2

CHICKEN
Olive oil
2 chicken breasts, skin on
salt and pepper

TARRAGON SAUCE
100 ml brandy
100ml creme fraiche
1 handful chopped parsley
1 handful torn tarragon leaves

1. Heat a heavy frying pan over a medium heat and add a little olive oil. Season the chicken well and place it skin-side down in the pan. Cook for a good 8 minutes, then turn the breasts over and cook for the same time again. Check the chicken is cooked through, then remove it from the pan and keep warm.
2. Raise the heat under the pan to very high. Add the brandy and carefully flame it to burn off the harsh taste of the alcohol. Shake or stir to incorporate the pan juices and sticky bits from the base of the pan. Stir in the creme fraiche then taste and season. Bring the sauce to the boil and reduce by half. Add most of the parsley and tarragon leaves.
3. Serve the sauce with the chicken and some mash or champ, pouring the brown juices that come from the rested chicken over the dish as well. Sprinkle with the last of the chopped herbs.

Refer to recipe for Guinea Fowl Tagine here.

John Torode’s Chicken and Other Birds

Quadrille Publishing Ltd, London

www.quadrille.co.uk

At Christmas I bought a box of pâté de fruits from France - the little cubes dusted with sugar tasted of real fruit, which inspired me to create this recipe. These pastels can be made with either home-made or commercial jam and eaten either as petit fours, or with cheese for lunch. Makes 120.

1 kg jam of any kind
juice of 1 1/2 lemons
a little vegetable oil
caster sugar, to dust

Put the jame and lemon juice in a pan and stir over a medium heat untul the jam has softened and the mixture resembles a sticky paste.

Lightly grease a small ceramic tray with the oil, pour in the mixture and leave to cool. Cut the mixture into small cubes and roll each into walnut-sized balls. Dust with sugar before placing into paper petits fours cases.

Antonio Carluccio’s Simply Cooking is published by Quadrille.

Fish soups are very regional, being made differently, often from village to village, along the coastline of Italy. In the Marche region, it is called brodetto, ‘little broth’, and uses the local fresh fish. A fish soup is also classic in Venice, which incorportes various molluscs from the lagoon. Serves 4.

6 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
2-3 tbsp passata
1kg mussels, cleaned (see below)
300g monkfish, cut into medium cubes
300g squid, cleaned and cut into rings (see page 36)
at least 500ml good French soupe de poissons (in most supermarkets or delicatessens)
4 thick slices country bread, toasted

First of all heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and fry the onions until softened, about 6-7 minutes. Add the passata, and in this cook the mussels, monkfish and squid rings, for about 10 minutes. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened.

Stir in your fish soup and heat through gently, about 5 minutes. Placing a slice of toasted bread on the base of each, pour the soup into bowls and serve.

CLEANING MUSSELS OR CLAMS.
Cover the mussels or clams with water and scrub well to get rid of sand and barnacles. Pull and cut away any stringy beards. Discard any mussels or clams that do not close when tapped, as they are probably dead. Wash again.

As a student in Vienna, Antonio cooked for himself and his friends on a very low budget – dishes he had learned in his mother’s Austrian kitchen during the lean, post-war years when vegetables were cultivated in the garden, breads and pasta were made at home, and he foraged daily for wild foods (especially mushrooms). Nothing was wasted, and any leftovers were used in a dish for another day.

He says, “Once you are on your own, you develop a sense of self-sufficiency, and learn how to balance your working or studying time with good and valuable free time.”

Here is a recipe from Simple Cooking.

Sicilian Vegetable Stew

Versatile, delicious and easy to make, caponata is probably Sicily’s best-known dish. Throughout the centuries, Sicily has been invaded and colonised by many other nations and many Sicilian recipes show influences from other cuisines. Here you will see that there are some hints of the French ratatouille, while the inclusion of raisins and pine-kernels suggests some Arabic influences too. Serves 4-6

800g aubergine
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
3 ripe tomatoes, cut into chunky cubes
1 tbsp tomato puree, diluted with a little water
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp salted capers, soaked (see page 34)
20 green pitted olives
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
chopped leaves and stalks of 1 head of celery
1 tbsp raisins
salt and pepper
1 tbsp pine kernels (optional)

Cut the aubergine into 3cm chunks, soak in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain. This will stop the aubergine from absorbing too much oil.

Fry the onion in the olive oil in a large pan for a few minutes to soften. Put the aubergine chunks into the pan and fry until soft and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, diluted tomato puree, sugar, capers, olives, vinegar, celery leaves and stalks, raisins and some salt and pepper and stew slowly until everything is melted together, about 30 minutes.

Stir in the pine kernels, if desired, and serve either cold or warm as a side dish, or by itself with bread.

In 1998, Antonio was given the Commendatore award, the equivalent of a British knighthood, for his knowledge, enthusiasm and lifetime’s service to the Italian food industry. In 2007, he received the O.B.E.

Antonio Carluccio’s Simple Cooking is printed by Quadrille

*Also see The Culinary Guide

*Review on http://strollingplayer.com

ISBN 978-1-84400-734-9

Rye Scallop Festival in February 2010

Sashimi of Rye Bay scallop with lemongrass and fennel essence

Pumpkin, Parmesan and scallop risotto

Rye Bay scallops and brown shrimp stew with rouille and sourdough toast.

These are just a tiny example of the wonderful and varied dishes that will be on offer at the Rye Bay Scallop Week in Rye, East Sussex from 20th – 28th February 2010.

The Rye Bay scallop is a most versatile shellfish and Rye’s chefs and fishermen have used all their skills and knowledge to bring you a fantastic array of exciting menus.

The week starts with scallop cutting and tasting sessions at Simmons Quay and continues with ‘Scallops for Breakfast’, ‘Champagne and Scallop Snacks’ and a ‘Mystery Scallop Dish’ competition.

‘The Scallop and Seafood cookery course’ at Webbe’s Cookery School is a perfect chance to cook, eat and enjoy the scallop and other local fish whilst the ‘Farmers Market’ will offer a scallop fuelled morning with a chance to buy, taste and watch more demos.

The George in Rye will be hosting their famous ‘Gourmet Scallop Dinner’ and the Ship Inn offers another chance to attend ‘Scallops of the World Unite’ with scallop dishes from across the globe.

Try Veloute of Rye Bay scallop, with a parmesan biscuit at The Place at the Beach or Home smoked Rye Bay scallop on a spring onion risotto cake with garlic pesto at the Mermaid Inn.

Taste Rye Bay scallop carpaccio with lime and baby leaves, A Rye Bay scallop ravioli with a lemongrass and chervil veloute or a Mini scallop fish pie with saffron mash.

There are many that say that nothing beats the traditional Rye fishermen’s dish of Rye Bay scallop simply seared in bacon fat. What do you think? Why not let us know how you like your scallops and we will add your ideas to our website.

Click here for full details.

Ashburton Cookery School, Devon

A ‘state-of-the-art’ cookery school has opened on the edge of Dartmoor, South Devon.

The Ashburton Cookery School has moved to new, custom-designed premises equipped with the latest Siemens appliances.

The move has allowed the school to increase its choice of courses and expand student places to meet the demand for learning new cookery skills. They inspire students to cook with imagination, passion and enjoyment.

Students are taught basic cooking techniques that can be applied at home and when entertaining family and friends; as well as for work in professional kitchens.

Chef Director, Darrin Hosegrove says, “Building a brand new cookery school has allowed us to create a fantastic facility built around the needs of the student. “We’re really proud of it and the feedback from students has been fantastic”.

Over 40 Cookery Courses

Enjoying the produce at Ashburton Cookery School

With courses running seven days a week in four kitchens, the school can offer over 40 hands-on courses. These have been split into five levels of ability and range from one to 20 days in length.

“Most of our courses are designed for the enthusiastic home-cook but we have courses for those with no cookery skills whatsoever,” said Darrin.

“We have had several students start on a beginners’ weekend and work their way up to an advanced course, cooking at a fine dining level.”

The one and two day Express Dinner Parties are very popular; teaching the art of quick, effective entertaining.

Gentlemen’s Relish – a two-day course intended for men to build-up their confidence and skills in the kitchen so they really enjoy cooking for guests and themselves – is also a winner.

Other courses include breadmaking, canapés, desserts, fish and seafood, game, knife skills and modern vegetarian; there are also courses inspired by a country’s cuisine, such as Italian, French and Thai.

The twenty-day Ashburton Cookery Diploma is an intensive training course for those wishing to launch a career in catering or start their own business.

It is highly regarded in the catering industry and past graduates can be found working in Michelin starred restaurants, appearing on television’s Masterchef or running successful catering companies and bistros.

The school is proud of using only the best ingredients and promotes the use of food and drink that has been produced in a way that is organic, sustainable, environmentally sensitive or ethical. Supporting local business is also an aim.

Location and Accommodation

The Cookery School in Ashburton is surrounded by antique shops and cafes. This is one of the most beautiful parts of the West Country with Dartmoor’s open expanses and the rolling countryside and sandy beaches of Devon’s glorious South Hams within easy reach.

The new building is close to the A38, positioned between Exeter and Plymouth, and there is a direct service from London Paddington or Birmingham New Street at Newton Abbot (about 15-20 minutes by car).

Accommodation is available on a B&B basis in the school’s own 17th century building in Ashburton’s East Street. Alternatively good, local  B&Bs and guest houses are available in the vicinity.

Tariff and Further Information

Cookery courses start at £149 per person for one day; this includes a personal workstation with all necessary utensils and ingredients, an apron, course folder with notes and recipes to take home, morning tea/coffee and lunch with a glass of wine. Lunch includes dishes made during the day. Those on courses lasting two days or longer may also have supper.

Courses run from 9.30am to 4 or 6pm, with a break for lunch. B&B costs are from £59 per person.

For a brochure or to book a cookery course contact the Ashburton Cookery School on telephone 01364 652784 or visit here:

And don’t forget! Foodies on your Christmas gift list will relish a cookery course voucher from the new Ashburton Cookery School in South Devon. The vouchers would be a welcome present for loved-ones, family members and friends.

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• Dartmoor property: moor appeal (telegraph.co.uk)

Cliveden's entrance. Photo VDuBourdieu©2008

After a visit to Cliveden’s lovely Berkshire hotel, and a discussion with Head Chef, Michelin-starred Chris Horridge, we took up an invitation to try their ‘With’ and ‘Without’ Tasting Menu at Waldo’s gourmet restaurant with alacrity.

Chris Horridge©2009

On the nominated night, my sister and I began with a tiny but stimulating red pepper and mandarin jelly concoction.

Then we moved to curry oil drizzled haddock soup dressed with parsley, olives and a cod liver oil soufflé. The soup was heavenly… but the cod liver oil was less well received. Both of us hated it as kids and my palate carried a faint echo of the powerful taste through most of the exquisite dishes that followed.

At this point, the wine sommelier had poured Lesley a creamy Pouilly Fuisse, which she was well pleased by, while I had a pleasant Burnt Spur Sauvignon Blanc (2007) from Marlborough, New Zealand – just over 30 minutes by car from where we lived as children.

Chris Horridge©2009.

My third dish was a delight to the eye and entirely refreshing; a paillette of carrot puree, poached quail’s egg, winter truffle, crisped apple and dry kale.

Lesley pulled a face at her sweetbread but found she loved it; bean puree and crisp slivers of dried orange and apple accompanied this.

Chris Horridge©2009

One of the highlights of the tasting menu came for me, at this point: scallops poached in coconut oil with stretched, dried roe.

By this time, I was also smiling over a mellow glass of Pouilly Fuisse. Lesley had mackerel with coconut cream, capers, coriander seeds and lime. She drank some Burnt Spur.

My red mullet with kohlrabi and a spot of orange was also superb. And one particularly interesting dish was the Anjou Pigeon, which Chris had researched from 1668; this involved cep-cinnamon dredging, garlic, baked onions, a liquid liver sauce (better than it sounds) and watercress puree.

Chris Horridge©2009

About this point, Lesley had a flower pot brioche with a demerara reduction and risked something else she had never dared, before: oxtail, which she described as beautiful, with meat that fell off the bone and was matched beautifully with the sweetness of raisins.

Mint icecream followed for Lesley (envy) and I had a kind of Crème Brûlée without the naughty stuff – lime burnt cream without the cream. I coveted my sister’s pudding. The lemon verbena and banana icecream was another two-starred dish for her.

The cheese trolley at Waldo’s is simply stunning. I’d go there just for that. Being New Zealanders, we were in our element and the truffle cheese was glorious.

Chris Horridge©2009

We went upstairs to the grand drawing room on the entrance floor for our cheese and coffee and ate lemongrass flavoured sweets afterwards.

Cost of tasting menu: £79 per person. According to my notes, there were eight coures but I might have missed something…

A final word, Cliveden is not only a top-ranked hotel; it offers full facilities to those who hanker after their own social and country club. There is a marvellous spa, as well. It is run by von Essen Hotels and owned by the National Trust.

See Waldo’s tasting menu here

Chris Horridge talks about food and the Michelin Star ‘club’

Travlark on Cliveden

Cliveden Hotel, Taplow, Berkshire, SL6 0JF

www.clivedenhouse.co.uk

With some high street retailers selling ‘diabetic chocolate’, Hotel Chocolat are often asked why they don’t.

The answer is, they don’t do it because they consider the whole concept of ‘diabetic chocolate’ is highly questionable. Moreover, this is a stance endorsed by the charity Diabetes UK.

Medical advice recommends that a healthy diet for people with diabetes is the same diet as for those without it - a balanced diet low in fat, sugar and salt with plenty of fruit and vegetables.

There are no forbidden foods, just energy regulation and fat restriction through sensible, healthy eating.

So-called ‘diabetic chocolate’ contains bulk sweeteners like fructose or sorbitol in place of natural sugar, which affect blood sugar levels in much the same way as sugar.

This chocolate can also be high in trans fats, which aren’t recommended eating for anyone - with or without diabetes.

The danger in labelling a product ‘diabetic’ means a spurious stamp of approval that some people with diabetes find hard to ignore - they may even believe it to be beneficial or essential. Yet some chocolate manufacturers persist in exploiting this market.

Far better instead to enjoy - in moderation, of course - real chocolate made with wholesome ingredients and a high cocoa content

You might like to try the following…

Dark Madagascar Purist

Boxed Mini Slabs - Non bitter

Dark Engraved Chocolate Heart

There are plenty more on Hotel Chocolat’s website

This exercise has given me an irrepressible urge to order some real chocolate… dark, of course.

PS Just in case you wondered, the top picture is organic dark chocolate with chilli and pink peppercorns.